From a reference shoe to an approved sample
Development is the stage where a drawing either becomes a wearable shoe or quietly becomes an expensive mistake. This is how we run it, and what it costs.
The sequence
- Brief. You send a reference shoe, sketch or tech pack, plus the market, target retail price and quantity. We come back with construction options, indicative pricing and the MOQ — within 24 hours for a straightforward brief.
- Specification. We agree materials, last dimensions, sole unit, hardware and finishing, and confirm the sample fee and lead time in writing before any work starts.
- Last and pattern. The last is modelled to your dimensions and the pattern cut from it. This is the stage that determines fit, and it is not a stage to rush.
- Sample. A physical shoe is built from your chosen materials. For a synthetic leather (PU) upper the fee is USD 100 and it takes about 15 days.
- Review and revision. You comment on fit, colour and finishing. Revisions are made against your comments, and the approved sample becomes the QC reference for bulk.
- Bulk. Production runs against that approved sample: 30 days from approval and deposit.
What development costs, and why
The sample fee covers the last, pattern and a single physical shoe — it is not a profit line, and it is not refundable against bulk. The number that matters is the total cost of getting to a shoe you can sell: a cheap sample that needs three revisions costs more than a correct one.
If a moulded sole or custom hardware is involved, tooling is quoted separately and belongs to you.
What makes development go badly
- No reference of any kind. A verbal description produces a guess. A photo, a competitor shoe or a sketch produces a decision.
- Changing the brief after the last is cut. Every change after that point re-opens the pattern.
- Target price set after sampling. Tell us the price first; it determines which constructions are even on the table.
Orders and lead times
[('Minimum order', '50 pairs per style, per colourway'), ('Sample fee', 'USD 100 for a synthetic leather (PU) upper; other materials quoted per style'), ('Sample lead time', 'About 15 days for a PU upper'), ('Bulk lead time', '30 days from sample approval and deposit'), ('Payment', 'Under USD 3,000 paid in full; above that 30% to start, 70% before shipment'), ('Shipping', 'EXW Chengdu or FOB Shanghai'), ('Location', 'Hongye Avenue, Chongzhou, Chengdu, Sichuan, China')]Questions buyers ask about this
How much is a sample and how long does it take?
For a synthetic leather (PU) upper, USD 100 and about 15 days. Leather, suede and more complex constructions are quoted per style, with the fee and lead time confirmed before any work starts.
How many revisions do we get?
Revisions are discussed against your comments on the first sample and quoted if they change the specification materially. Most styles are approved on the first or second round if the brief was specific.
Do we own the last and tooling?
Tooling and moulds created for your style are quoted as a separate line and belong to you. We do not reuse your last or your patterns for another client.
Send the shoe you have in mind
A photo, a sketch or a tech pack is enough. You get construction options, indicative pricing and the MOQ back within 24 hours. Sampling a synthetic leather (PU) upper is USD 100 and takes around 15 days — and nothing goes into bulk until you have approved the shoe.